This huge food market, on the outside of the moat across from the North Gate, opens up in the evening and goes till the wee hours of the morning. You’ll find the all the staples – pad thai, noodle soup, omelettes – but the star is definitely Cowboy Lady Khao Kha Moo. The satay stand (with the disturbing cartoon pig cooking itself) makes nice turmeric pork sticks with pickles and the salabpao (steamed buns) in the front are hand-made. Quite a few of the stalls do seafood, but your results may vary.
Khao kha moo, duck gaphrao, pork satay